Adding CAT to the QCX

I enjoy QRP CW and prefer the  N1MM Logger+  while contesting .  When Hans Summer  (G0UPL)  added the potential for computer communications to the firmware for his  QRPLabs  QCX models,  I was very interested.

Hans' latest incarnation of the QCX-style rig is the QCX+.  The  QCX+  has the hardware for computer communications built in, but the older  QCX  does not. 

You will need at least  firmware  version 1.03 (the latest version would be best), along with two resistors, a diode and a way to get the TTL data in and out .  For the connection to your PC, you will need a TTL to USB converter.  The later was the biggest expense by far.

Below (mostly in pictures) is how I added the necessary hardware.  Notes and an example N1MM Contest Logger function key file follow.  

If you click on the images they will enlarge:

 

 

 

I got my parts from Mouser for about $10 plus shipping (I had four QCX transceivers to convert).  The TTL to USB cable was from Amazon for about $14 - but you only need one of those!  The 'DTEK DT-6562 USB TTL to 3.5mm audio jack serial cable' worked for me.  Be careful - there are non-working imitations out there...

I used very small stranded cable from the junkbox - and the colors helped me keep up with the leads after the shrink tubing was applied.. 

It is a tight squeeze to get the 3.5mm jack into position (and you may have to bend the shell, tip and ring connections to avoid the CW straight key), but the jack from Mouser conveniently nestles into the cutout  on the  BaMaTech  case which gives you a little more room.

Hans wrote notes on this mod that I would strongly urge you to read.  They are in the assembly manuals for the later models on   this page  and again, I would encourage you to check them out before attempting this mod.

I primarily use N1MM+ for contesting and I use the "CATA1ASC KY" commands to communicate with the QCX directly - no additional electronics other than the TTL to USB cable are needed.  Below is a function key file I use for the weekly  CWTs  sponsored by  CWOPS  that you might use as a model (after editing, of course).

#REM cwt.MC 
#REM  12-30-2020  wb5bkl 
F1 CQ cwt, {CATA1ASC KY cq cwt * * k;}
F2 Exch, {CATA1ASC KY ! {EXCH} ;}
F3 Tu, {CATA1ASC KY tu ;}
F4 {MYCALL}, {CATA1ASC KY * ;}
F5 His Call?, {CATA1ASC KY ! ? ;}
F6 DUPE, {CATA1ASC KY B4 e~e ;}
F7 QRZ?, {CATA1ASC KY QRZ? ;} 
F8 Agn?, {CATA1ASC KY agn? ;}
F9 Name?, {CATA1ASC KY name? ;}
F10 Nr?, {CATA1ASC KY nr? ;}
F11 Spcl, {CATA1ASC KY HNY e~e ;}
F12 Wipe, {WIPE}
#S&P ----------- Search and Pounce Messages begin here -----
F1 QRL?, {CATA1ASC KY qrl? {MYCALL} ;}
F2 Exch, {CATA1ASC KY {EXCH} ;}
F3 Tu, {CATA1ASC KY tu ;}
F4 {MYCALL}, {CATA1ASC KY * ;}
F5 His Call?, {CATA1ASC KY !? ;}
F6 1371, {CATA1ASC KY 1371 ;}
F7 NICK, {CATA1ASC KY nick ;}
F8 Agn?, {CATA1ASC KY agn? ;}
F9 Nr?, {CATA1ASC KY nr? ;}
F10 Nme?, {CATA1ASC KY name? ;}
F11 Spcl, {CATA1ASC KY HNY e~e ;}
F12 Wipe, {WIPE}
#REM ----------, Special instructions begin at end-of-file -
#REM, S&P F1 calls QRL? before placing the program in RUN mode
#REM, Designed to work in either ESM or non-ESM mode
#REM, F5 uses "!" macro for his callsign
#REM,

73 and good luck!

cln - Nick

WB5BKL

 

 

 

Popsicle or Ice Lolly QCX Stand

An easy prop for a QCX in the BaMaTech box.  If you like Popsicles (AKA ice lolly, freezer pop, ice pop, icy pole), this can be both a treat and cheap.  If you like kabobs (kebabs, etc), even better.

Construction images - not much to it.  Comments below.  Click on the images to enlarge them for details and to make my mistakes easier to see:

Note that the 'kick stand' skewer rotates in the bottom sticks.  The support skewers bear on the four QCX feet.

If I had it to do over, I would have made it wider and had the 'kick stand' to rotate within the lower Popsicle (ice lolly) sticks - that way it would fold flat for storage.   :-)    Oh well.

Well under an hour, excluding the gluing time.

cln - Nick
WB5BKL
Lake Buchanan

QCX - 30M Transceiver - Mods

Two more mods for my 30M QCX.

I have already completed several mods, as detailed in QCX - 30M Transceiver .  The final one I did last year was intended to increase the power output, but was only marginally successful.

Recently, I purchased a 20M QCX, but after finishing construction, I found that the ATmega328P microprocessor was not working.  Hans, at QRPLabs, had seen this problem before and was happy to send a replacement - and I ordered an additional latest firmware chip for this 30M rig.  While waiting on the replacements to arrive, I elected to replace the capacitors in the low-pass output filter.

I replaced C25 and C26 with 560pF silver micas and replaced C27 and C28 with 270pF silver micas.

These capacitors were huge compared to the originals - so I had to get creative in placing them.









I





Note that C27 and C28 had to move to the bottom of the PCB - and were tilted slightly to provide clearance for the enclosure.




I am fortunate to have a low-priced but effective solder-sucker that I bought some years ago.  This would have much, much more difficult without it.

Here are the parts I removed.  The largest is about the size of the head of a kitchen match.  I used silver micas as I had the correct values for the 30M QCX on hand.





Just as I was completing this modification, the replacement microcontrollers from QRPLabs arrived - with firmware version 1.00f.

The only volatile information that I wanted to keep was the correction for the 27MHz frequency reference (Entry 8.5:  27.004.550), so I made a note of that and replaced the 1.00b firmware with 1.00f.  As expected, no re-alignment was really needed, but I touched it up anyway.

After all these changes, I now have 3.4W out measured with the same equipment as earlier.  This is just about what the designer predicts, given my 12.4V motorcycle battery power supply and the polarity protection diode.

I am pleased and will call this good for now.

My thanks to W5IQS for suggesting mounting the capacitors on the bottom of the PCB.   And to Hans, of course.  The more I use this little rig, the more I like it.

Here is an image of the 30M QCX in its new enclosure.


cln - Nick
WB5BKL

QCX - 30M Transceiver

Recently, I built a QRPLabs QCX, the 30M version.  I have stopped recommending anything to anyone, but I hope to build both the 40M and the 20M versions in the near future.  I have collected a few hints, in no particular order:

Hints:

*  There is a impressive video of a QCX build here by IZ7VHF.  Worth a look if you are considering the QCX.

*   The local big-box office supply store wanted more than the list price of the QCX to print a color manual - even just B/W was more than Hans charges for the kit plus shipping.  I put the manual on an old iPad and propped it up near my work area.  I only printed the inventory pages, the section concerned with winding of T1 and the Cheat Sheet near the end of the manual.  I had the Cheat Sheet laminated.

*   If you use something like an iPad or PC to display the manual, all the illustrations can be handily expanded.

*   I used a pair of binocular magnifying glasses.  Also very handy.

*   I would strongly advise a complete inventory of all parts (also see below).  I had one extra capacitor.

*   I would also strongly advise organizing - at an absolute minimum - the capacitors and resistors by value.  Muffin tins would be nice (and would only take moments to wash and slip back into the kitchen).  If you are fortunate enough to have a workplace that will remain undisturbed, at least draw circles for each value on a piece of cardboard and stick them in that.

*   All of my placement errors were with the resistors.  I strongly advise the hint above, and re-checking the color codes against each other and the inventory listings.  Use a VOM to resolve problems with color resolution.  Slight color (colour?) blindness runs in my family.

*   With my tired, old eyes, I found it hard to count the turns on T1.  I ended up taking a photo with my phone, transferring it to my PC and enlarging it on-screen.  I had one turn too many on the S3 winding.

*   When you cut the small connectors apart, I would strongly advise covering the connector and tool with a cloth.  My first cut ricocheted off the wall, then the bookcase then my chest.  Miraculously, I found it in the work area after an extensive search of the floor.  Of course, use eye protection.

*   Take Hans' suggestion and orient all the parts either the same way or at least in such a fashion that the values can be read later.  Remember that this project will be very crowded at the end.



*   The page breaks in the manual are occasionally unfortunate.  Be extra careful when the instructions and the illustration are on different pages.  As mentioned earlier, the illustrations in the Manual I downloaded to my iPad can be enlarged when clicked.

*   From my experience with SMT projects, I now have a large, cheap aluminum foil cookie sheet with a properly sized piece of white cotton cloth taped inside.  Very handy.  If you ground it, even better.




Finished:

First impressions - the receiver is HOT!  I am impressed.  The QCX seems to hear almost everything my K3 does.  

Power output was low - measured externally at about 1.4W.  

I spent some time reading the QRPLabs e-mail reflector and then followed Hans Summers' recommendations for mods to the QCX.


Mods:

Here is a listing of the modifications I made.

Before and after each change, I made a series of measurements.  First was a 5 second key-down followed by a 15 second rest, then repeated twice more.  Then a 30 second key-down, followed by a 1 minute rest , then repeated twice more.  I am reporting averages of these measurements.  Power was measured independently of the QCX with a 20W Elecraft 50 Ohm dummy load.  I also recorded the supply potential.

I did the mods in two stages, mostly because the changes to L1, L2 and L3 were a little tedious.

Mod #1        -   12.55V supply
    Before:      5s      1.55W
                30s      1.69W
    ** Removed 1 turn from L1, L2, and L3
    After:       5s      1.36W
                30s      1.38W
    ** Re-alignment
    After        5s      1.56W
                30s      1.52W 

Mods #2&3&4   -   12.38V supply
    Before       5s      1.4W
                30s      1.5W
    **Install 1N5819 Schottky diode
    After        5s      1.5W
                30s      1.6W
    **Install 10K resistor from Q5 drain to +12V
    After        5s      1.4W
                30s      1.6W
    **Replace MPS 2907 with MPS751
    After        5s      1.5W
                30s      1.6W


    **Re-alignment
    After        5s      2.0W
                30s      2.0W

The image below shows the diode and resistor addition to the bottom of the PCB.

I think (but do not know) that the removal of one turn from the low-pass filter did not do much.  I think the addition of the 10K Ohm resistor and the change to the MPS751 did a little good.

At this writing, I am satisfied enough that I will await more information from the designer before diving into the circuit board again.  

As it stands, 2W seems to do well on 30M given reasonable propagation.  The Reverse Beacon Network seems to hear me just fine.

More to come, I hope.


cln - Nick
WB5BKL